Quote Originally Posted by Mjrowley View Post

radiator fan not forthcoming on automatically, yet it will with overturn switch...

also the lights, head and reverse lights testament "blink" everso slightly every 10 sec aroun when temp is 170deg +

Quote Earlier Posted by Mjrowley View Post

All I did was take a pic of it . Getting the power for the swap near 1/2" from the black bulge from the red wire. Ran wire to switch which is grounded so light comes on when power is passing thru the substitution. Then I tied into the blue telegram on the fan.

Euskadi ta Askatasuna: I noticed that the switch will get hold of few seconds to spark upward when over 160deg. When cold it turned on when flipped.

Going past your symptoms, it looks same you have the ground connection messed skyward somehow. "also the lights, head and reverse lights volition "nictitate" everso slightly all 10 dry or so when temporary is 170deg +" is describing what information technology would do if the naughty wire in the stock electric circuit was grounded. Therein case, the radiator thermoswitch closes and sends power straight to ground, which is a dead short, which causes the racing circuit breaker to compressed off power. The circuit ledgeman and then cools off after 10 seconds and closes once again, delivering index to the short again........ and the hertz repeats time and time again again.........
A momentaneous shortish circuit to ground would drag down the voltage forthcoming to power the lights and they would dim down until the circuit breaker kills the short to ground.

Apparently, you are using a lighted switch which has to have a ground connection to make the illumination exploit. These are dangerous animals if you do non realize how it of necessity to be hooked up and make water the wrong connections.

Hera is a schematic as to how an illuminated inevitably to be hooked up. The switch can be bugged in 2 unlike slipway and be usefulness. The 'normal' elbow room is to wire it much that the light is happening when you have the ignition system switch office in the on position. This is so that you can find the switch in the dark. That shallow is on whether the switch is in the on put down or the off position. This is how the switch manufacturing business labels the connections in their literature. This is shown in the lour schematic in this picture:

The former way to hook the switch up is to have the miniature along sole when the switch is in the 'on' position. This is probably what you wanted to do. The flip-flop illumination will occur on whether the big businessman is originating from the alternate power source or also if the load is being powered by an external power source. This is shown by the upper schematic in the above picture.

Lick which wire is which on the tack, all electric switch maker will probably call the "append", "load" and "globe" by different names. To figure it taboo without educated which is "supply" and which is "load": Use a 9 Volt battery. Connect the switch over "earth" connection to the dismissive terminal of the battery (information technology will likely be well identified, greenish wire most likely). connect one of the other switch terminals to the incontrovertible battery terminal. Flip the switch on and off: If the light is lit up in both flip positions, that is the "supply" terminal. If the light is on in nonpareil of the exchange positions and remove in the other switch position, then that is the "load" terminal". Now, label those switch terminals as you have identified them.

You say: "Then I equal into the blue devil wire on the fan.", I take nary clue what you tied into the blue devil wire, but I shady it was the wrong connection. I would part over from scrawl and disconnect everything that you have added and start once again. Hook up the switch terminals as shown in the following schematic. To be safe, DO NOT hook up the "earth" (ground) connection of the switch earlier. You will simply represent using the "supply" and "load" terminals, as information technology will not thing which is which without the lamp being grounded. This following word-painting shows the connections that you need to make: I would make the connections near the thermoswitch connector which is near the radiator. This way you are sure to connect to the proper wires. You keep saying the "Red" wire. You are after a Red/Black stripe wire. There is so a jelled Red wire congeal in the Rhino and it is NOT the one that you want to hook up to. There are too some individual functional circuits to judge then with only the limited phone number of unvarying neutral-coloured wires that you could get, hence the stripe.